Alaska Railroad, January 2010: Northbound, the Aurora leaves well before the sun is up this time of the year. It is clear and there are splendid views of Denali. The train stops to let passengers off into the woods. As darkness decends, we cross the Alaska Range and pass Denali Park. Hours after darkness has fallen, the train arrives in Fairbanks, where it is minus 30 degrees F. Stepping off, it takes your breath away.

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